Inverted Moulds Acrylic Nail Extensions – What Are They And How Do They Work?

The nail industry in the UK is a multi million pound industry and the popularity of ‘false’ nails with the female population has reached new heights, particularly over the last decade.

But over 99.99% of all salons and nail techs use the ‘Same’ two systems to create their nails. Either ‘Tips’ or sculptured nail forms. Inverted Moulds (or IM’s) is the third. It is a system that is exclusively used with liquid and powder acrylics to create super strong full acrylic sculptured nails.

In the past creating full acrylic sculptured nails was reserved for the elite nail techs, the ones with the most experience and training because they are inherently difficult to do. IM’s were created to solve this problem and many others, by allowing new and less experienced nail techs to create better full acrylic nails faster and with more consistency than ever before.

Inverted Moulds are ultra thin, clear and very flexible uniquely shaped plastic moulds. Their job is to hold and cradle the two part soft acrylic mix as it goes through the hardening process, chemically referred to as polymerisation. The technician starts by sculpting the acrylic tip and smile line DOWN into the IM not UP on to the natural nail like in the traditional way of doing nails. Why? Because sculpting down is easier to do. An example of this can be found in every day normal life when making a cup of coffee. When you open your jar of coffee the best way of extracting it and putting into your cup is by using a spoon. The spoon is able to hold just the right amount of coffee safely because of it’s ‘scoop’ like shape. But what if you turned your spoon over and tried picking up the same coffee with the back of the spoon? Not so easy right? In fact it’s almost impossible. IM’s use this ‘scoop’ principle to great effect as they can hold the acrylic in place very easily, whereas the traditional way of doing nails with Tips and Sculptured Forms, the acrylic is built up on the natural nail using the more difficult ‘Back of the spoon’ technique. Another sculpting advantage when using IM’s is that they are not fixed in position across a desk like the client’s hands and fingers. This allows the nail technician to easily move / hold the IM in a far better and more comfortable working position.

Once the acrylic tip and smile line has been created and the acrylic has fully hardened the technician can move onto the next IM and repeat for all ten nails. This technique is called ‘Pre-Doing’ the acrylic tips, which is a unique technique that can only be done when using Inverted Moulds and brings about advantages not available to nail technicians who use Tips or Sculptured Forms. Pre-Doing nails allows the nail tech to be working on a clients nails when they are not even in the salon and can be done hours, days or even weeks before their actual appointment. For salon owners and nail technicians one of the most frustrating parts of the job can be cancellations and gaps in their appointment books. Inverted Moulds can help reduce this frustration by allowing the tech to start work on another set of nails for a different client. This can lead to them being able to make up time and free up other appointments later in the day for a telephone client or a walk in. In essence using IM’s allows the technician to make the best use of their time and resources.

Once all ten acrylic tips have been sculpted into the IM the nail tech will follow their normal natural nail preparation routine (just like any other nail system) and once ready they will apply a ‘bead’ of pink liquid and powder acrylic mix to the inside of the Inverted Mould at the base below the smile line. The next step happens quite quickly, the tech will turn the IM over and while the pink acrylic is still ‘wet’ will begin application to the client’s natural nail from the cuticle area towards the free edge in one swift movement and then carefully hold the nail in position as the pink acrylic begins to polymerise. When using IM’s no glue is used, every extension is bonded to the natural nail using liquid and powder acrylic so there is no stress area at the free edge and so no need to build up a bulky apex for added strength. Because of this nail extensions created using Inverted Moulds follow the shape of the client’s natural nail and look less false.

In essence the IM is a ‘method of application’ a way of putting acrylic onto the natural nail quickly, easily and consistently. But that’s not its only job. As the acrylic hardens inside the IM both the acrylic and the mould chemically fuse together and cannot be separated. This gives the finished nail extension not only an instant glossy and super smooth surface that requires NO buffing, but the IM acts like a ‘Shell’ giving a suit of armor level of protection against chipping and impact damage. Make nails created with Inverted Moulds far more robust, functional and hard wearing than another nail extension currently available.


Post time: 02-03-2017