The solid-back again as its title implies requires to carry the concluded excess weight of the hull and stay quite rigid during the creating of the hull. If it warps or twists, then the hull will just take up a shape that could be recognizable and incredibly disappointing to say the least. I build the solid back again from 200mm x 50mm rough sawn timber, as a lengthy rectangle about 1M lengthier than the yacht, and screwed some diagonal bracing beneath it to avoid it moving. I constructed this body on leading of stumps that I concreted into the ground, but could have been merely bolted to a concrete floor if I experienced just one. Then working with the Grainger Yacht layout designs I marked out correctly the distances for each individual station, (mould body situation), as these markings were being to be for the bearers that the mould frames would be screwed to. A limited piano wire was set up along and 25mm previously mentioned the centre line of the solid-back again. This was the reference position from which to set each individual temporary mould body centre line and datum drinking water line peak from. Correcting the piano wire was uncomplicated, but conveying it down below appears to be a bit lengthy winded, sorry about that.
I cut a pair of parts of 50mm (two”) angle iron by about 150mm (six”) lengthy and drilled a pair of holes around just one end for wood screws to connect the angle iron to the solid-back again. At the leading end I drilled a tiny gap for the piano wire to move by. At the time I experienced just one of the brackets connected on the centre line at each individual end of the solid back again with the piano wire gap about 50m previously mentioned the solid-back again timbers I then clamped the 2nd bracket to the opposite end. the piano wire was handed by the gap and just one end and tied off, and handed by the 2nd bracket and then tied all-around a piece of (four” x two”) 100mm x 45mm x one.5M timber about one/four along its duration. With just one end of the timber resting from the solid-back again I used the timber a leverage to set tension on the piano wire, and then blocked the lever at that situation to retain the tension. I used a line stage which is a tiny bubble stage with hooks that permit you to hook it around the piano wire. I adjusted the piano wire stage by tapping the bracket that was clamped into situation with a hammer until eventually the wire was stage, and then screwed the bracket to the solid-back again. now it was time to set the mould frames into situation on to the solid-back again.
Just about every hull mould body experienced to be set upright with a precise lengthy builders stage ninety degrees to the piano wire, and the (DWL) datum drinking water line fro each individual body experienced to be the same peak up from the piano wire, and though that was getting finished a builders substantial plate sq. was used to make guaranteed that each individual mould body was sq. at ninety degrees horizontally to the centre line or piano wire. You can see that there are many planes that will need to be regarded, checked and set up stage and squared, and rechecked and checked once again. I cannot stress anymore just how crucial it is much too do this correctly, as the fairness of the hull relies upon on the get the job done and care set into this phase of the undertaking in advance of the 1st plank is connected to the mould. A rough occupation of the solid back again and mould frames setup will certainly end up just a compromised end later on, consisting of humps and hollows in the hull sides that will demand a great deal of patching and so on and may never glimpse fantastic. To avoid the hull getting bonded with West procedure epoxy resin to the mould frames the edges of the mould frames were being included with insulation tape to avoid the DuraKore from bonding to the mould.
Post time: 11-11-2016